| English
Black Gun Flint - from Brandon, England
$1.50 each or $16.50 per dozen
9/8" for Brown Bess muskets (9/8" wide x 1"~1¼
long)
8/8" for Brown Bess or Charleville muskets (1"
wide x 7/8"~1-1/8"
long)
7/8" for Rifles (7/8" wide by 3/4"~1"
long) |
Lead
Musket Flint Pads - 1" x 2" with hole to allow for jaw screw.
Same as those found at Fort Stanwix, New York City, Hudson Highlands,
and Brandywine. $.25 each |
| Wooden Musket Flint
(also known as a Snapper or Driver) for Bess or Charleville $.50 each
With regard to flints Cuthbertson (pg.92, X) writes "The
flints should always be screwed in firm, between a thin piece of lead,
it having a more certain hold, than leather, or any other contrivance....
a Soldier ought to have...a small bit of wood, shaped like a flint, to
use at exercise, in practicing the firing motions..." |
| Cartridge
Former - choice of cherry or walnut. $2.00 each
5/8" Hardwood dowel with one end hollowed out to
accept the ball when rolling cartridges or for tucking in the end of cartridge
paper when rolling blanks, as specified by Timothy Pickering in An
Easy Plan of Discipline for a Militia (1770). He writes, "A
piece of wood about six inches long is to be made round so as to fit exactly
the size of the ball; this is called a former: make one end of it hollow
to receive a part of the ball...". From Cuthbertson (pg.117,
IV), "...that all the cartridges may be exactly proportioned to
the bore of the firelocks, a sufficient number of wooden formers, of a
proper size, must likewise be provided."
The cartridge must fit snug in the block. Countless times
I've found rounds on the battlefield that look as though they were rolled
on a pencil or felt pen former. These undersized tubes will fall out of
your pouch when you are running or falling to the ground. The proper paper
tube cartridge must have some fricton between it and the wood block. These
formers will make rounds (live or blank) for Charleville or Brown Bess. |
| Cartridge Paper
- The safety regulations for many groups require the blank rounds be
properly made. That means a good paper, no staples, no more than 125 grains
of powder, and the round fit well in the block. A good paper easily tears
with the teeth, but doesn't fall apart when the cartridge is extracted from
the block or doesn't stay folded in shape. I've seen people using common
newspaper which is unsightly; white copy machine paper which doesn't tear
easily; and brown restroom paper towels which falls apart. The best paper
I've found is artists newsprint. Instructions on how to roll a blank cartridge
are on the 40th Foot website. A pad of 100 sheets, cut to the proportions
specified by Timothy Pickering in his 1775 work An Easy Plan of Discipline
for a Militia. $3.00 |
British
Musket Tool - copied from original found in Camden, S.C. (c.1780).
Two screwdriver blades and tip of the "punch" end is Italian
threaded to hold worm. About 3½" tall. $12.00 each |
Provincial Musket Tool
- copied from original found at Seven Years War (1760's) site in the N.Y.
Champlain Valley. It might be British and/or Provincial. See Collector's
Illustrated Encyclopedia, pg. 264, #6. About 3¼" tall.
$10.00 each |
American
Musket Tool - Simple iron blade with decorative twists and pricker
end. Not a copy of any particular artifact but is typical of the period
style and workmanship. About 3¼" tall. $8.00 each |
Mainspring/Hammer
spring vise. Great for compressing springs when cleaning the lock.
Modern construction and design. $14.00 each
New and not yet pictured: a larger vise with more of an 18th C. design.
$16.00 each
|
Hammer
Stall - Brown Bess or Charleville $5.00 each. Made of leather with
matching thong. The free end of the thong is slit for inserting onto the
musket swivel or can be tied to the swivel or trigger guard. Available
in black, natural light brown (pictured), or buff leather. This item is
sometimes called a "Frizzen Cover" (Frizzen being a term used
in 18th C. civilian context).
Hammer stalls and flash guards are authentic and did exist in the 18th
Century. Regarding hammer stalls, Cuthbertson wrote (pg 93, XIII), "...On
Service, leather Hammer-stalls are undoubtedly an advantage to a Battalion,
when loaded, and resting on their Arms, as accidents may be prevented
by having them fixed upon the hammers of the Firelocks..." The
following are orders for the Royal Artillery Regiment, issued at Philadelphia
on 2 June 1778 in anticipation of the march to New York which culminated
in the Battle of Monmouth. "It is left to their [officers] discretion
in time of real Action to disencumber such men as they may think proper
entirely of them [arms], taking care that they be lodged in their Ammunition
Carriages and to prevent any possible Accident happening therefrom, thumb
stalls have been ordered to be provided which the men are constantly to
keep on the hammer of their pieces except when posted centrys." Source:
Great Britain, Royal Artillery Regiment Library, Woolwich, Brigade Orderly
Book, James Pattison Papers.
|
Musket Parts - I don't have them, but a source
for Brown Bess parts (Japanese and Italian), and Charleville parts is
Paul Ackermann www.ackermannarms.com. Paul can make repairs to ramrods
and bayonet lugs, tune and repair locks, hone barrels and crown muzzles,
repair and refinish stocks, and reharden hammers (frizzens). Paul is a
1st New York member, and the West Point Military Academy curator of arms,
and can be reached evenings at 845-658-9248. Paul recently acquired the
stock of parts and kits from the family of the late Ed Woodland. As you
may know, the mainsprings on newer Italian Brown Bess are awful, but replacements
are available. The older Italian Bess mainsprings can be replaced, but
it takes drilling and filing to make the replacement springs fit. This
is not something you can do in the field.
Jim Casco (Whitcomb's Rangers) now has Japanese Brown
Bess hammers (aka frizzens), hammer springs, sear springs, and main springs.
Jim's email is caspar@vermontel.net and phone 802-235-2457. Jim also has
parts for the older Italian Bess's and is making springs out of real spring
steel for about $50, as opposed to the awful springs on the new muskets.
Jim can also do repairs, tune-ups, and restoration work. If you don't
know Jim, he is the fellow who brings the proof and armory stamps to events.
Antique Arms Restoration (John Bosh) specializes in 17th
and 18th century firearms and repairs to these arms. John is in eastern
Massachusetts at 508-695-3548. |
| Musket Sling - for 1st Model (Long Land) Brown
Bess, 2nd Model (Short Land) Brown Bess, or Charleville. Prices range
from $17 to $35. Sling swivels
on muskets are generally 28" apart when measured between their mounting
screws. If your swivel screws are 30" apart or greater then order
the longer Long Land sling. Many of the Long Land muskets have
the sling swivels at the same location as Short Land muskets, so please
measure before ordering as you might not need a longer sling. As a practical
matter I've found that slings without buckles, or slings with buckles
but without tongues, are the easiest to use and may be more authentic
as can't recall seeing an image of a sling with tongue holes. The photos
of the buff leather slings shows the leather whiter than usually available.
Buff leather ranges in color from off-white to straw color due to the
oil used to tan the leather. Leather
slings are 1 3/8" (35mm) wide. |
A
- My "EA", a double D brass buckle stitched to end of sling. No
tongue on buckle, the friction of the thick leather against the buckle holds
the sling in place. Black or Natural Brown leather $ 25.00 . English Buff
leather $ 30.00 |
B1 - Same as sling A above, but the "EA" buckle has an
iron tongue and sling is pierced with holes for the tongue. Black or Natural
Brown leather $ 25.00. English Buff leather $ 30.00 |
B2
- Same as sling B1, but with my "EX" D buckle with iron tongue.
Black or Natural Brown leather $ 25.00. English Buff leather $ 30.00
|
C
- My "EA", a double D buckle that slides along sling, as pictured
in Morier paintings of the mid-18th Century. Buckle can be easily removed
to polish buckle and pipeclay the leather. English Buff leather $ 25.00
|
| Cuthbertson recommends
(pg.100, XXVI) that, "Slings without buckles are lightest, and most
convenient to the Men at exercise..." The two slings below (D and
E) are made without buckles. |
D - This sling is and based upon an original in Scotland.
A leather loop, or keeper, holds the sling to the desired slack. When tight,
a small strap at one end of the sling is fastened to a leather button at
the other end of the sling. This sling is made to fit a musket with 26½"
between the sling swivels bars when they are drawn taut. If you need a greater
distance, order the Long Land version and provide the swivel measurement.
Black or Natural Brown leather $ 30.00. English Buff leather $ 35.00 |
E
- This sling is on the Charleville displayed at Brandywine State Park.
Similiar to sling D above, but without the button/small
strap, and this sling has a second leather loop/keeper to keep the sling
in the desired position. This sling will fit either a Brown Bess or Charleville.
Black or Natural Brown leather $ 25.00.
English Buff leather $ 30.00
|
| NEW - Hemp
Webbing Musket Sling - The Continental Army had chronic supply
problems with items made of leather, such as cartridge boxes, shoes, and
shoulder carriages. This is documented in Gen. Washington's writings and
is the reason his army was at times supplied with tin cartridge cannisters,
shoes from France, and hemp webbing shoulder carriages for the cartridge
boxes. As suggested by the numerous American muskets without sling swivels,
musket slings were probably among the items with a low priority. For those
muskets with slings it is likely that webbing would be used so that leather
could be set aside and used to make more important items such as cartridge
boxes. I am now making a hemp webbing musket sling for Continental Army
troops. This sling is 1¼"
wide and has my brass EB buckle. The buckle is hand sewn to the webbing
and the tautness of the sling is easily adjusted with this buckle. The sling
end at the trigger guard must be sewn in place and strong linen thread is
provided. The sling is available in a Short Land length (approx
28" between the sling swivel screws) and a Long Land length for when
the sling swivels are greater than 30" apart. Short Land version
$17, Long Land version $19 |